Coimbra

For a moment, forget the guidebooks. Coimbra, the former capital of Portugal, is a city you have to feel in your legs. You'll quickly realize that its heart is the Alta – the historic district, which is one giant, steep labyrinth climbing towards the old university.

You climb through narrow passages, where the cobblestones are treacherously uneven, and the houses press in on each other so much that they almost form tunnels. They even have a set of stairs here called Quebra Costas, which means "The Back-Breakers." Seriously, the name says it all. Getting lost is a matter of minutes and the best thing that can happen to you here, because a hidden square or an atmospheric alley awaits around every corner.

And here, I have to mention something. I've never been a fan of vertical photos. I considered them pointless because, after all, our TVs and monitors are horizontal. Well, Coimbra broke me, just as its stairs can break your back. These narrow, tall streets simply scream: "photograph me vertically!" And you know what? They're right. For the first time ever, I have more vertical shots than horizontal ones.